There are 100 of these round entities in total; and if being indoors in such a spectacular setting is a shame, fear not, for within them you remain immersed in the outdoors. Dazzling turquoise waters draw your gaze away from a neutral interior palette, while the lines in between are blurred by a wall of retractable glass. The raw wooden decks are furnished with a table, lounge chairs and a daybed for two from which your feet can dangle in the pool, perhaps to cool off in the heat of the day, or while indulging in stargazing together in the evening. In addition to an indoor and outdoor shower, there is a huge tub which I returned to one night to find an eagle ray floating in the bubbles (which later).

If you really want to give someone a holiday, consider booking them a treatment at Bamford’s round spa; perhaps the Maldivian Signature Rejuvenation, which exfoliates the body using sand before a massage and soak in hydrating coconut milk for three decadent hours. Each of the nine treatment rooms is named after its cardinal point, which brings a particular energy, while the largest suite includes its own relaxation room.

Sustainability has been a key theme in the development of the Fari Islands, so Bamford fits in perfectly. The use of prefabricated buildings has reduced the size of the on-site workforce, minimizing localized damage, while solar panels on the roofs of the buildings run the air conditioning, which in turn heats the water.

The Ritz-Carlton has set up Jean-Michel Cousteau’s Environmental Ambassadors program, which teaches conservation to even the smallest guests by explaining the reef to them in terms of an underwater city with certain fish and corals performing special works.

The first Maldives resort I’ve been to where they don’t upset the ecological balance by feeding fish is also the first where you can see marine life from a drone like I did. Dr. Sol Milne, who studies the entanglement dangers of “ghost nets” (lost or abandoned fishing gear that continues to ensnare), also offers insight into what happens on drone flights. We followed a mobula ray fever – a rare sight, judging by Sol’s excitement. Despite the horrific El Niño coral ‘bleach’ a few years ago, the reef is showing strong signs of recovery and marine life was abundant, from multicolored butterflyfish and damselflies to a graceful eagle ray that beat ahead me.

This was recreated in my bath by the wonderful Mariyam Shaghaf, my Aris Meeha (an old Maldivian term for the monarch’s wife that the hotel has adopted as an alternative to ‘butler’), using fine reeds of bamboo. Obviously, his artistic talents are as strong as his organizational skills, which kept me where I needed to be at the right time.

It was mostly in restaurants, whether enjoying a lazy brunch at the Beach Shack, where Miraval rosé flowed freely and I feasted on blue shrimp; eating dim sum at the summerhouse, suspended over the water, the candles reflecting in the inky darkness; or marvel at the culinary magic of Chef Jameel, whose smoked truffle teriyaki wagyu beef was a one-bite treat at Japanese restaurant Iwau.